There has been a lot of smack talk on Sellita movements and their comparison to the ETA. We opened a few select model watches the other day to see for ourselves. A Hamilton Khaki containing the workhorse ETA 2824 and the Oris Big Crown automatic with the SW200 aka Oris caliber 735. What we found under close inspection is a clone war of sorts. The SW200 took all its prompts from the original ETA 2824, but did it do a good job of working through the movement and “finishing” the piece for the public?
Scrap what you’ve read before. Have other writers opened the pieces and tested them side by side for you? Have they put them through the ringer for accuracy first hand? Probably not. Watch Flipr tested both pieces, and granted we are not the C.O.S.C. facilities of Switzerland, but we have a good idea of what runs well and what does not. Both movements performed well, but I will save you the up/down and plus/minus seconds routine. Although ETA is often known for Excellent Timing Accuracy, the surprising results were that the Sellita from Oris had better timing in every position. Well within chronometer status on this watch when cased up.
It’s true that the SW-200-1 makes a mockery out of the ETA 2824-2 timing, as WF accurately points out it is better in position to position timing errors. The secret is a well researched hairspring technology, the hairspring in the SW-200-1 is quite literally dozens of microns thicker, and on a high beat calibre like these, it performs with better accuracy. The hairspring maker, is not Nivarox-Far, but an ancillary company and Sellita have exclusive use of their products for years to come. –Prem Chainani
The long and short of this is Sellita makes a quality product and will run with ETA just fine for years to come. Yes, they are clones and made to substitute, but that shouldn’t cause anyone to think ETA movements are superior. The loving hands of the final watchmaker can prove to be very important when working with either of these two mechanisms, and how accurate they are when they get to your wrist. Happy Flipping.